I left Guilvinec at seven, more than an hour before the sun was up. That would give me ample time to be at the start of Raz du Sein at slack water just before quarter to three. Last year I had a fearful experience there going south through the raz, but that was on a tidal coefficient of more than 100, today it was only 61. Still I was a bit nervous. With no reason at all it turned out, Raz du Sein showed it's nicest side today, without the memory from last year I would have wondered what all the fuzz was about. I didn't even get much help from the current, less than a knot I think I gained, motor sailing towards Camaret, where I had made a reservation in the marina. But encouraged by the smooth passage of the raz I started to consider to continue all the way to L'Aber Wrach. Which would include another tidal race, Chenal du Four, six times longer than Raz de Sein, stretching from Rade de Brest up to the English channel. After consulting Navionics and the pilot guide, I saw I was right on time for the passage. The only problem was that the wind was still mainly from the north which would mean wind against tide, something that can cause some nasty seas and normally should be avoided. But according to the forecast the wind should veer against east early in the evening, and not being particularly strong. So I continued on a northerly course with full genoa and one reef in the main.

Pointe St Mathieu west of Brest is the starting point for Chenal du Four when one are going north, and there I passed a little after five, pretty much ideal for catching the north going current.

And current I got, much stronger than in Raz de Sein. Soon I was doing over eight knots with help of the engine, and it was still far from mid tide, when the current is at its strongest. The wind showed no sign yet to veer, it was still from NNE, and before it was completely dark I was met by typical wind against tide condition. For someone who has never been in a tidal race in bad conditions, it is hard to imagine what it is like. The waves does not come rolling against you, they emerge from the deep without warning, or suddenly the sea opens under the boat and you fall down and hit the water with a thud so you sometimes are afraid that the boat will break. The sea is turned into a living force that wants to destroy you and your boat, maybe punishing you for being so stupid that you enter there at the wrong time. I was taken by surprise since Raz de Sein was so timid earlier today, but maybe it was similar conditions there at mid tide. Luckily it didn't last that long, less then half an hour I think, then the sea was more normal again, even though the wind continued to be over 10 knots. With help of the engine I was now making over 10 knots at times, never below nine. And when the wind veered, it became almost southerly instead from the east, so when I turned more to the east at the end of the Four I still had good help of the sails, and was never below eight knots

When I decided to go for L'Aber Wrach, I thought I would be there well after midnight, now it seemed I could be there before ten.

What bothered me a bit was that I had counted on moonlight, which makes a big difference when night sailing. The forecast promised a clear sky during the night, but when the moon never appeared I checked on internet when it would come over the horizon. After eleven it said. Quite embarrassed I made a mental note - if you want to rely on the moonlight, make sure it will be up when you need it. It's hard to imagine how dark it gets at sea at nights when there is no moon. My astigmatism doesn't improve my night vision either, very much the opposite, and looking at the lit screens every so often makes it even worse.

Having been in L'Aber Wrach quite a few times now, I thought the pilotage into the marina would cause no big problems, but the total darkness and the abundance of lights ashore and at sea forced me to go very slowly. The coast of northern Finistere is dangerous with lots of rocks above and under the water, so you better not venture outside the buoyed channels when going into the ports. Still I was in the marina before ten, pretty much at slack water, so there was no big problems to sneak into the last free berth on the inside of the outer pontoon.